Monday 23rd July
After an enjoyable few days in a very hot and busy Stratford Upon Avon it was time to move on downstream and explore the river and its towns and villages.
We got an early start in more lovely sunshine travelling slowly with the flow of the river. Just after passing Trinity Church we arrived at the first of the six river locks taking us round the weirs, these are necessary to provide sufficient depth for navigation and on this part of the river they occur frequently.
After an enjoyable few days in a very hot and busy Stratford Upon Avon it was time to move on downstream and explore the river and its towns and villages.
We got an early start in more lovely sunshine travelling slowly with the flow of the river. Just after passing Trinity Church we arrived at the first of the six river locks taking us round the weirs, these are necessary to provide sufficient depth for navigation and on this part of the river they occur frequently.
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| Trinity Church Stratford |
The river is quite narrow and twisty below Stratford but passes through beautiful country side deep in the heart of England, in many places in these parts it easy to forget that we are in the 21st century, with thatch roofs and timber framed buildings in abundance.
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| Upper Avon |
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| Another of the Avon Locks, many are named to honour those who dedicated themselves to the reopening of the navigation. |
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| One of the many restored locks |
We made good progress and at the third lock at Luddington we met another boat waiting, in the lock chamber, for us to join them. They kindly waited for us to use the services there before we joined them.
After the lock we passed under the medieval bridge at Binton, a very pretty spot.
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| Binton Bridge |
We progressed quickly with the help of the other boat, arriving at our planned stop for the night at Bidford around noon, moorings are somewhat limited on rivers so it is advisable to get an early start arriving at moorings in good time, this way there is usually a space to be found.
We tied up alongside the large recreation grounds before heading off to explore. The village has a very old centre close to the river but housing extends northwards. We walked down the high street, there are a few pubs and a few food outlets here and a local butchers (closed during our visit) but very little else. We walked up to have a look at the church again closed. The heat was really building so we headed for the pub in the centre of the village, The Bulls Head, a lovely old local establishment.
We tied up alongside the large recreation grounds before heading off to explore. The village has a very old centre close to the river but housing extends northwards. We walked down the high street, there are a few pubs and a few food outlets here and a local butchers (closed during our visit) but very little else. We walked up to have a look at the church again closed. The heat was really building so we headed for the pub in the centre of the village, The Bulls Head, a lovely old local establishment.
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| Bidford on Avon |
We returned to the boat and with all doors and windows open we stayed inside away from the blistering heat, we had a short walk later in the evening once some of the heat had subsided, poor old Scruff was suffering with the heat but glad to be out in the cooler evening air.
The following morning saw an other early start, the locks were a little more spread apart and the river had become wider and deeper making for quick progress, our destination, Evesham, was only 8 miles and 4 locks downstream so we took our time soaking up the wonderful environment as we cruised along through some of England's finest scenery. We passed under the new bridge carrying the bypass around the town before passing beneath the railway bridge carrying the Oxford to Worcester line overhead. The approach to Evesham lock requires careful negotiation, when arriving from upstream there is a large weir to the left and a large sluice to the right, the flows can be strong here so it is necessary tie up to the weir barrier before setting up the lock.
We had to wait for a boat to come out of the lock before we could enter, there were two others waiting the come up, so there was plenty of help to get us through. Once underway we immediately passed under the old bridge in the town, the moorings are on the left bank after the bridge, we were advised to moor towards the far end of the moorings away from the bridge, there was plenty of space available and we were soon secured and ready to explore.
Evesham is another historic town however it is showing signs of neglect in a few areas, the moorings are alongside the Workman Gardens, nothing to do with hi-vis, hard hat wearing personnel but named after a long serving mayor of the town, Henry Workman.
The town appears to have a large eastern European community and the seemed to congregate in the gardens, drinking and smoking copious amounts of various substances. There is a determined campaign to stop these habits from being undertaken here and the morning of the day we arrived we were told that fifty or so had been moved on by the police. The anti social behavior here has given the area a bad name among the boating community but we didn't experience any problems or feel intimidated even though there were large numbers of people around during the warm evening.
The town does have a lot of people hanging around street corners but is generally ok and certainly worth visiting. We walked over the bridge and up the street arriving at the old market square to the left, this was a bustling spot with cafes and bars around the square all with large out door seating areas. We entered a narrow lane through an old archway and into the abbey grounds. Very little remains of the abbey buildings other than the Bell Tower, lying between the parish church and the older St Lawrence Church the latter under the care of the Churches Conservation Trust. The inside of the church is a must see with the vaulted, ploughshare ceilings and old stained glass.
The following morning saw an other early start, the locks were a little more spread apart and the river had become wider and deeper making for quick progress, our destination, Evesham, was only 8 miles and 4 locks downstream so we took our time soaking up the wonderful environment as we cruised along through some of England's finest scenery. We passed under the new bridge carrying the bypass around the town before passing beneath the railway bridge carrying the Oxford to Worcester line overhead. The approach to Evesham lock requires careful negotiation, when arriving from upstream there is a large weir to the left and a large sluice to the right, the flows can be strong here so it is necessary tie up to the weir barrier before setting up the lock.
We had to wait for a boat to come out of the lock before we could enter, there were two others waiting the come up, so there was plenty of help to get us through. Once underway we immediately passed under the old bridge in the town, the moorings are on the left bank after the bridge, we were advised to moor towards the far end of the moorings away from the bridge, there was plenty of space available and we were soon secured and ready to explore.
Evesham is another historic town however it is showing signs of neglect in a few areas, the moorings are alongside the Workman Gardens, nothing to do with hi-vis, hard hat wearing personnel but named after a long serving mayor of the town, Henry Workman.
The town appears to have a large eastern European community and the seemed to congregate in the gardens, drinking and smoking copious amounts of various substances. There is a determined campaign to stop these habits from being undertaken here and the morning of the day we arrived we were told that fifty or so had been moved on by the police. The anti social behavior here has given the area a bad name among the boating community but we didn't experience any problems or feel intimidated even though there were large numbers of people around during the warm evening.
The town does have a lot of people hanging around street corners but is generally ok and certainly worth visiting. We walked over the bridge and up the street arriving at the old market square to the left, this was a bustling spot with cafes and bars around the square all with large out door seating areas. We entered a narrow lane through an old archway and into the abbey grounds. Very little remains of the abbey buildings other than the Bell Tower, lying between the parish church and the older St Lawrence Church the latter under the care of the Churches Conservation Trust. The inside of the church is a must see with the vaulted, ploughshare ceilings and old stained glass.
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| Ploughshare Roof - St Lawrence Church- Evesham |
The bell tower contains a carillon and we were treated to the sound of the bells many times during our stay here.
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| The Bell Tower, Evesham |
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| Evesham |
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| The heritage centre - Evesham |
Wednesday 25th July
Up early again this time to make our way to Pershore, we are now on the Lower Avon, this navigation used to be divided into two separate operating companies but soon after restoration they amalgamated. Our trip down consisted of three locks over a distance of eleven miles making for long stretches between the locks, Chadbury, Fladbury and Wyre Piddle, just three of the intriguing names around here.
Up early again this time to make our way to Pershore, we are now on the Lower Avon, this navigation used to be divided into two separate operating companies but soon after restoration they amalgamated. Our trip down consisted of three locks over a distance of eleven miles making for long stretches between the locks, Chadbury, Fladbury and Wyre Piddle, just three of the intriguing names around here.
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| Lower Avon |
As we approached Wyre Piddle we got our first glimpse of the imposing Bredon Hill, this will be with us nearly all the way to the end of the navigation at Tewkesbury. At Fladbury there is a large mill overlooking the lock, this was water driven later becoming the site for two 20 hp turbines.
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| Fladbury Mill |
The river meandered its way down to Pershore where we reached the moorings in time for lunch before heading off to explore.
Pershore is a delightful town again with its abbey church providing welcome relief from the stifling heat, fortunately they are dog friendly so Scruff was able to take advantage of the cool stones of the abbey floor. The church is incredible with the local cotswold stown almost glowing inside and out. as with Evesham the church is all that remains of the abbey buildings and is set in peaceful parkland, the park was full of many of the local office workers having their lunch while sat in the shade of the many trees.
Pershore is a delightful town again with its abbey church providing welcome relief from the stifling heat, fortunately they are dog friendly so Scruff was able to take advantage of the cool stones of the abbey floor. The church is incredible with the local cotswold stown almost glowing inside and out. as with Evesham the church is all that remains of the abbey buildings and is set in peaceful parkland, the park was full of many of the local office workers having their lunch while sat in the shade of the many trees.
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| Pershore Abbey |
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| Pershore Abbey |
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| Pershore Abbey |
The town is linear with most of the shops along the high street, we had to avail ourselves of a punnet of the famous Pershore Plums, small and sweet. I also tried a Pershore pork pie, equally delicious.
There is everything you require on the high street but if you require large supermarket shopping there is a large Asda just across the playing fields from the moorings, adjacent to the leisure centre.
Opposite the Asda there is also a large indoor market, all in all a good place to restock.
The moorings had filled up quickly after our arrival so we were glad we opted for an early start.
Whist only ten minutes from the centre of the town the moorings are very peaceful with a large playing field and cricket pitch adjacent, that evening barbeques started to appear everywhere, presumably cooking the locally produced Gloucester Old Spot pork chops!
There is an elsan point at these moorings, it looks a bit like a stainless steel phone box stood away from the bank in the park we utilised the facilities before retiring early.
There is everything you require on the high street but if you require large supermarket shopping there is a large Asda just across the playing fields from the moorings, adjacent to the leisure centre.
Opposite the Asda there is also a large indoor market, all in all a good place to restock.
The moorings had filled up quickly after our arrival so we were glad we opted for an early start.
Whist only ten minutes from the centre of the town the moorings are very peaceful with a large playing field and cricket pitch adjacent, that evening barbeques started to appear everywhere, presumably cooking the locally produced Gloucester Old Spot pork chops!
There is an elsan point at these moorings, it looks a bit like a stainless steel phone box stood away from the bank in the park we utilised the facilities before retiring early.
We enjoyed Pershore but needed to move on down to Tewkesbury where we had arranged to meet Lucia's sister Anna, Nick and Nat. Due to the popularity of the moorings there we decided to get underway early so started the engine before quickly untying and slipping quietly away downstream at 0645 just as the steam rising from the river had been diminished by the warm, early morning sun.
Very quickly we arrived at the deep Pershore lock, adjacent to the lock are two large Archimedes turbines, we were later told that these power the leisure centre. There was only one running at that time however as we filled the lock we noticed that the generator slowed down, an indication of how low the water levels had become during the prolonged dry spell.
Very quickly we arrived at the deep Pershore lock, adjacent to the lock are two large Archimedes turbines, we were later told that these power the leisure centre. There was only one running at that time however as we filled the lock we noticed that the generator slowed down, an indication of how low the water levels had become during the prolonged dry spell.
Our journey down the river was really enjoyable, being early, we had the river to ourselves, soon arriving at Nafford lock, here we found a boat moored on the limited lock mooring making dropping crew off quite a challenge, the chap on the boat came out to apologise for the inconvenience and helped us through the lock, he had struggled to find a mooring the night before so had no choice other than to moor there and was getting ready to leave, I did offer to wait but he declined as his wife was still asleep, so we got on our way.
Thi stretch of river is dominated by Bredon Hill with its large folly and iron age fort atop.
The passage through here reminded of our trip on the river Aire near Eggborough where the power station seems to dance around, Bredon Hill was in front one minute and behind the next, such was the meandering, whatever its location it provides a stunning backdrop to the area. Across the fields we had good views of the Malvern Hills away to the west.
The river continued its twisting course between the hills before reaching the lock at Strensham, below which the scenery opened up on the north bank and the village of Bredon on the hillside to the south. Shortly after passing the marina at Bredon we passed under the M5, striding across the valley on concrete stilts, I have crossed this bridge may times and it was satisfying to finally pass under on the boat.
Thi stretch of river is dominated by Bredon Hill with its large folly and iron age fort atop.
The passage through here reminded of our trip on the river Aire near Eggborough where the power station seems to dance around, Bredon Hill was in front one minute and behind the next, such was the meandering, whatever its location it provides a stunning backdrop to the area. Across the fields we had good views of the Malvern Hills away to the west.
The river continued its twisting course between the hills before reaching the lock at Strensham, below which the scenery opened up on the north bank and the village of Bredon on the hillside to the south. Shortly after passing the marina at Bredon we passed under the M5, striding across the valley on concrete stilts, I have crossed this bridge may times and it was satisfying to finally pass under on the boat.
With the roof tops of Tewkesbury coming into view we passed the large sailing club and the enormous marina stradling across both sides of the river, before passing under the old King John's bridge to arrive at the moorings adjacent to the Avon lock. We reported at the lock office paying six pounds for two nights mooring just beyond the lock entrance.
There are quite a few moorings here but as with Pershore they soon filled, we invited one disappointed boater to breast up to us.
There are quite a few moorings here but as with Pershore they soon filled, we invited one disappointed boater to breast up to us.
Tewkesbury
Anna, Nick and Nat joined us on the boat before we set off into town, we called into the Berkeley Arms for lunch, thoroughly recommended, the food was faultless and must be one of the largest Ploughman's ever encountered, the only disappointment was the fact that they had sold out of the intriguing flavored ice cream, such as rhubarb or blackberry crumble another result of the heatwave.
Anna, Nick and Nat joined us on the boat before we set off into town, we called into the Berkeley Arms for lunch, thoroughly recommended, the food was faultless and must be one of the largest Ploughman's ever encountered, the only disappointment was the fact that they had sold out of the intriguing flavored ice cream, such as rhubarb or blackberry crumble another result of the heatwave.
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| Berkeley Arms - Tewkesbury |
I have always loved Tewkesbury, with its heraldic banners hanging from the pretty timber framed buildings, each displaying a notice stating whose banner was being displayed. Each banner represents the families involved in the medieval battle fought here in 1471.
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| Tewkesbury Abbey |
This battle the last Yorkist victory of the struggle for the crown, know since Shakespeare's time as the war of the roses.
The war was not a war of the counties, as is often implied these days but basically a tug of war for the throne of England between two factions of the families descending from Edward III.
The war arose mainly from the ineffectual reign of Henry VI, he was crowned as a young child and his reign was controlled by a close group of advisers who held the power of the throne until he came of age. The king married Margaret of Anjou, who became the real power behind the weak king. Richard Duke of York, who some historians believe had a greater claim to the throne persuaded the king to make him the successor to the crown, however Queen Margaret contested the agreement, insisting that their son Edward, Prince of Wales should be the next king.
Following the death of Richard, Duke of York and his son Edmund at Sandal Castle during the battle of Wakefield, one of his other sons, Edward sought revenge. A few months later at the bloodiest battle fought on English soil, at Towton. Edward was victorious becoming Edward IV. Henry VI was incapacitated by one of his many bouts of illness but recovered sufficiently to regain the throne Edward and his supporters fled the country eventually to return, victorious, to retake the throne.
Queen Margaret returned to France, she returned in 1471 with an army of French and Belgian mercenaries, along with the many nobles devoted to her cause. The army travelled up the River Severn attempting to cross at Gloucester, only to be thwarted by Edwards supporters. They continued their march towards Tewkesbury to be met by Edward and his Yorkist army.
Battled ensued on May 4th 1471, the Lancastrian forces being heavily defeated, Edward Prince of Wales fell here along with many others. Many of the lancastrians fled to seek sanctuary in the Abbey, however Edward decided that the victory needed to be completed and broke the sanctuary of the church by entering the abbey and dragging out the enemy, they were then quickly charged and beheaded in the town soon afterwards. Queen Margaret escaped to Little Malvern, only to be arrested and brought back to London, here husband Henry was killed the same day.
Many of the nobility are buried in and around the abbey, Edward Prince of Wales is buried in front of the altar, in the choir, beneath the sun in splendor, the symbol of Edward IV.
The war was not a war of the counties, as is often implied these days but basically a tug of war for the throne of England between two factions of the families descending from Edward III.
The war arose mainly from the ineffectual reign of Henry VI, he was crowned as a young child and his reign was controlled by a close group of advisers who held the power of the throne until he came of age. The king married Margaret of Anjou, who became the real power behind the weak king. Richard Duke of York, who some historians believe had a greater claim to the throne persuaded the king to make him the successor to the crown, however Queen Margaret contested the agreement, insisting that their son Edward, Prince of Wales should be the next king.
Following the death of Richard, Duke of York and his son Edmund at Sandal Castle during the battle of Wakefield, one of his other sons, Edward sought revenge. A few months later at the bloodiest battle fought on English soil, at Towton. Edward was victorious becoming Edward IV. Henry VI was incapacitated by one of his many bouts of illness but recovered sufficiently to regain the throne Edward and his supporters fled the country eventually to return, victorious, to retake the throne.
Queen Margaret returned to France, she returned in 1471 with an army of French and Belgian mercenaries, along with the many nobles devoted to her cause. The army travelled up the River Severn attempting to cross at Gloucester, only to be thwarted by Edwards supporters. They continued their march towards Tewkesbury to be met by Edward and his Yorkist army.
Battled ensued on May 4th 1471, the Lancastrian forces being heavily defeated, Edward Prince of Wales fell here along with many others. Many of the lancastrians fled to seek sanctuary in the Abbey, however Edward decided that the victory needed to be completed and broke the sanctuary of the church by entering the abbey and dragging out the enemy, they were then quickly charged and beheaded in the town soon afterwards. Queen Margaret escaped to Little Malvern, only to be arrested and brought back to London, here husband Henry was killed the same day.
Many of the nobility are buried in and around the abbey, Edward Prince of Wales is buried in front of the altar, in the choir, beneath the sun in splendor, the symbol of Edward IV.
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| Roof detail in Tewkesbury Abbey - the sun in splendor |
The church was resanctified following these events and there is a cross scratched into the stonework to the left as you enter the church.
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| The carved cross |
The following day our brother in law, Andy picked us up and drove us back to their house near Dursley, we spent a very enjoyable evening with family and an excellent barbecue hosted by Andy and Rosa, Vicky with cousins Sarah, Catherine and partners came up from Bristol too.
On Saturday morning we arrived back at the boat, the weather had changed significantly and we, at last, had some welcome rain. The forecast for Sunday was poor so we booked an additional 2 nights mooring.
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| Riverside cottages - Tewkesbury |
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| Gupshill Manor - next to the battlefield |
On Sunday we took a walk around the battlefield, this is a signed route with interesting information boards along the way. We also walked up to the roundabout at the southern end of town, here there is a sculpture of two horses, victorious and vanquished, they are inspired by a contemporary account of the battle known as the Arrival, this is the name given to the sculpture.
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| The Arrival |
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| Victor |
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| Vanquished |
Monday 30th July
A much better day today with a return to warm sunshine, the rain had raised the level a little but only to return to normal summer levels. We decided to set off down the lock and onto the river Severn heading for Gloucester. Shortly after entering the river we arrived at Upper Load lock, this was l ready for us as I had radioed ahead.
A much better day today with a return to warm sunshine, the rain had raised the level a little but only to return to normal summer levels. We decided to set off down the lock and onto the river Severn heading for Gloucester. Shortly after entering the river we arrived at Upper Load lock, this was l ready for us as I had radioed ahead.
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| Upper Lode Lock |
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| River Severn |
On spring tides the section below this lock is tidal and the river was full as we left the chamber, there was not much flow in either direction at first but the flow downsteam increased as we progressed. We were instructed to radio the lock keeper at Gloucester as we entered the parting, here the river splits in two, the passage to the lock is down the East side, the mooring before the lock is notorious due to the high flow that can be experienced here, fortunately the lock keeper called us to say the lock was ready and we could go straight in. We had to wait for a large cruiser following us to join us in the lock then we were soon lifted into the impressive Gloucester docks and the Gloucester, Sharpness canal.
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| Glouscester Lock |
We moved on down the canal for a couple of nights before returning to the docks for our 2day stay.
We plan to remain on the canal here for a few weeks, after which we will investigate the possibility of heading down to Bristol via the estuary.
We plan to remain on the canal here for a few weeks, after which we will investigate the possibility of heading down to Bristol via the estuary.
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