Wide Waters

Wednesday 29th August
All arrangements are now made for our trip down the estuary, Gloucester pilots have confirmed that all is still good to go, I have confirmed with the bridge and lock keepers at Sharpness that we are set for a 9.00 bridge swing to get into the docks and Portishead marina have confirmed they are expecting us.
We moved down to Purton a mile or so up stream from Sharpness to overnight here, with all preparations in place for the trip there was nothing left to do other than sit and contemplate the coming trip.
I always think carefully about these type of trips and spend the hours before considering the procedures that may be necessary should something go wrong, however the pilots are trained to deal with any such emergencies but it doesn't stop me thinking about these things, especially when entering the second highest tidal range in the world.
I decided to spend the evening fishing and managed to catch a good bream and roach, before retiring early.
We were up for 6.00 am and were joined by brother in law Andy who was accompanying us for the trip.
The morning was beautiful if cool, typical of late summer, there wasn't a breath of wind and a thin mist was rising from the water as the sun gradually rose bringing a welcomed warmth.
We made our way down to Sharpness, mooring just short of the swing bridge. There are spectacular views over the estuary here and we witnessed the tide starting to flow upstream towards Gloucester.
I had watched the incoming tide the night before at Purton, the tide was just coming off springs so there was still a lot of water flowing by. The previous night I saw small tidal waves forming as the water rushed in, it really is a fantastic thing to watch, demonstrating the raw power of nature.
At 9.00 am we approached  the swing bridge, the bridge keeper duly arrived and swung the bridge enabling passage into the docks. There was plenty of activity around the warehouses and  a large coaster was docked and being unloaded.

Sharpness Docks

The huge lock was set for us and it was here that we had arranged to meet the pilot, there was no sign of him and the lock keepers said he would have to lock us through as there was a boat on its way up from Portishead and would need the lock ready for him.

Entering Sharpness Lock

We picked up on the radio that our pilot was coming on another boat on its way up from Cardiff and so we were instructed to moor up on the pontoon inside the piers.

Sharpness lock opening

A wide beam came through first, also using a pilot, shortly followed by a large dredger and it was on board this that our pilot arrived, he was dropped off at the other side of the dock so we had to maneuver across to pick him up before returning to the pontoon to await the tide.
The pilot, Brendon, introduced himself, he had been up before light that morning, to bring the dredger up the estuary from Cardiff.
The pilot informed us that we had a tight schedule and had to be at Portishead no later than 1345 as there would not be enough water to get into the marina after that. We got underway but only got as far as the end of the south pier before we met a strong tide racing in form our port side, he upped the revs and we inched extremely slowly past the pier head.

End of the south pier it took 20 mins or so to pass here

Full power got us round to the shallower water near the east bank and the force of the tide eased a little. Progress was slow at first but as the tide turned we soon started to increase our speed, a couple of miles or so from Sharpness the channel crosses over towards the west bank, progress was easy now on flat water, the wind was behind us, this is the most favorable direction as it flattens the water when blowing in the same direction as the tidal flow.

The old Severn Bridge

Passing under the old bridge

We soon arrived to the first Severn bridge (the older of the two), here the water took on an entirely different mood, the tide ebbs across some deep holes and rocks creating turbulence and whirlpools, quite daunting to sail across. There are great views of the confluence of the river Wye here too.

Wye Bridge

The flow was really racing here and on the approach to the second bridge the pilot handed me the tiller, I am really glad we  had the pilot aboard as here the tide rushes sideways through the bridge requiring us to use more power and pass under the bridge virtually sideways, straightening as we left the large single span.

The new bridge note the calm water and tidal flows

The new crossing

Some old duffer at the tiller

The turbulence started to ease as we made our way across the estuary towards Avonmouth and Portbury docks, we passed quite close to the shore here as the tide was wanting to pull us away, we aimed at approximately 45 degrees  to our destination at Portishead arriving with 5 minutes to spare. The lock was prepared for us and  we sailed straight in and then lifted up into the peace and calm of the marina.

Entering Portishead

I really like the marina here, it is full of all sorts of interesting boats, we were given an easy berthing at the end of a jetty and settled in for our brief stay here.

Portishead moorings

There are many bars, shops and restaurants around the marina, however we first had a walk into the town before returning for a drink close to the mooring, we decided to wander down to the Italian restaurant and had a thoroughly enjoyable meal overlooking the lock.
Later that evening we became aware of the sound of water flowing outside the boat so Andy and I went out to see what was happening, the tide had reached a greater level than the marina, so the lock keeper had to open the gate to allow the water level in the dock to rise, this eliminated the need to pump water back after the numerous lockings of the day.

Friday 31st August
We awoke to another fine morning with little wind, we had arranged to meet the pilot in the lock ready for our second part of the journey, taking us back out into the estuary before entering the mouth of the river Avon and up stream to Bristol.
The lock was prepared and on the green light we entered and tied up on the pontoons, these are unusual but very useful as the pontoons are floating and therefore move up and down with the water level.

9.00 am lock out at Portishead

Our pilot, Andy, this time, one of the Bristol pilots, joined us just as the lock had emptied and the gates were opening, we let the two boats sharing the lock with us go first before heading out once again into the wide waters of the Bristol Channel.
As we left the lock a large car transporter boat came into view, our pilot radioed the pilot controlling this boat and as it began its complicated maneuvering to enter Portbury lock they held back allowing us to scurry past with the tide and into the river.

The large car transporter coming into view

Looking towards Avonmouth

It is always an interesting trip through the Avon gorge, parts of it reminded us of the Panama canal with huge rock faces on either side.
The first landmark was the huge viaduct carrying the M5 motorway over the river, we last passed beneath the motorway just outside Tewkesbury on the Warwickshire Avon.

Under the M5

 Soon after we reached the village of Pill with its small harbour, this is the home of the "Hobblers" who for generations have made up the pilots and handlers for all the shipping hereabouts, our pilot, Andy, was one of the first 'outsiders' to join the team.

The village of Pill

Making our way up through the gorge with the busy road to our left we passed the Adam and Eve light on our starboard side, the navigation light is located at the old entrance to a hospital up on the hill above the river, it was here that many of the wounded from the Crimean Wars were brought by ship before being carried up to the hospital. The name of the gate comes from the carvings of Adam and Eve on either side of the now bricked up gateway.

Adam and Eve Gate

A little further on we passed the Powder house to our port side, the building now converted into a house was originally built to store munitions and explosives as it was not permitted to take these into the port of Bristol. All ships had to unload their dangerous cargoes for safe keeping here.

The Powder House

Just over to the other side of the river we passed and area known as the Hanging Road, not a reference to some macabre punishment, but a large stone wall fitted with huge mooring rings. Ships used to tie up here and literally hang off the wall at low tide, keeping them upright and clear of the thick, steep, muddy slopes.
We now started to get our first glimpse of the impressive Clifton Suspension bridge, a couple of hundred feet above us, the views of Brunel's engineering marvel, from the river, are spectacular.

Clifton Suspension Bridge looking downstream

Once under the bridge attention then turned to the entry into the lock entrance, hidden from view until you are upon it. Again the lock was prepared for us and we were straight in just as the tide was beginning to turn.

Looking back from Bristol Lock

The lock was soon filled and we waved goodbye to our pilot as we entered Bristol's huge floating harbour, once inside Cumberland Basin we moored up and reported in at the Harbour Masters office, we opted for a 48 hour license so we could meet up with Vicky and Ian as we were now in their home town.

SS Great Britain

We tied up on the Arnofini moorings right in the centre of town. Here Andy left us to return home, it was great having him do the trip with us and I must thank him for acting as chief photographer, many of his pictures are used in this blog.

Bristol Moorings

Bristol Moorings

After a couple of nights accompanied by the loud and boisterous partying of the town, Vicky, Ian and one of Vicky's bridesmaids, Shana, joined us for a trip around the harbour, after which we dropped them off before setting off out of town up to rejoin the river Avon at Netham Lock.
We are now moored at Hanham lock for the night where we were again joined by Vicky and Ian.
Tomorrow, Monday, we intend to make our way up to Bath to be reunited with the canal network on the Kennet and Avon. Our intention is to make our way up through Wiltshire to join the Thames at Reading, here we will travel up stream to Lechlade before returning down to Oxford and the start of the Oxford Canal.

Evening at Portishead