Monday 25th March 2018
The morning was bright and sunny, although there had been a frost, the ice soon cleared and we were on our way along the main line heading for Birmingham.
It wasn't long before we reached the junction of the Wyrley and Essington canal, this canal heads up to the northern reaches of the BCN and it was our original intention to explore these back waters, however, due to our discussions with the other boaters at Wolverhampton, we decided against it for the time being. Maybe we will reconsider later in the season when some of the rubbish has been removed.
We carried on impressed by the depth of the canal making for quick and easy progress. This stretch of water follows the original course of Brindley's route but was modified and improved by Telford in later years. We soon arrived at Tipton where the old and new lines separate to be reunited closer to Birmingham.
This junction known as Factory junction requires a sharp right turn to continue on the old line or straight on to descend the three locks down to the new line level some forty feet below. We had no option other than to take the old line as the new line had been dewatered due to repairs to an aqueduct just below the locks.
Just after the junction we passed another junction leading to the Dudley canal, Black Country Museum and the Dudley Tunnel visitor centre, somewhere we plan to visit later in the week. The old line twists and turns following the contours of the hillside, this was Brindley's preferred method of canal design leading to a sometimes torturous route to cover a short distance. Telford's route, on the other hand, takes a straight line using embankments, cuttings and tunnels, in this case shortening the distance by a third. Travelling along here we passed many old and new factories some were old engineering works with that old engineering smell taking me back to my time as an apprentice then suddenly, around the next bend being brought back up to date by the smell of samosas and onion bhajis from a local bakery.
We crossed Tividale aqueduct where the old line crosses the Netherton branch of the New Line, we were able to look down onto the canal and saw the portal of the 3027 yard long Netherton Tunnel. Shortly after we reached Bradeshall junction and it's three locks down to the New Line. The old line and all its links to the new were retained as there was industry and mining activity along its banks, relying on the system for moving goods in and out.
A few miles further on the canal reaches the M5 motorway, built over the top of the canal. There was significant work going on under the flyover and the atmosphere led to a very surreal feel with our route passing beneath and in between all the scaffolding installed for the work. It was strange to see old humpbacked canal bridges in this artificial environment.
Under the motorway we also came across another couple of junctions the first being a short arm leading down to Oldbury, the second, Spon Lane junction, yet another link to the new line via three locks. Immediately before this junction we crossed over the new line on Stewart aqueduct affording us views up and down the straight new line below. We continued along our elevated level passing the old Smethwick Pumping Station, this was built to return water from the new level back up to the old, significantly increasing the number of boats able to pass through the locks each day. The original beam engine was built by Boulton and Watt, this is now on display in the Thinktank Museum in Birmingham. Shortly after the pump house we reached engine arm again crossing the new line to a basin on the opposite bank.
At this point we had arrived at the top of the three Smethwick locks where old and new are again reunited. Lucia went to set the lock up only to find that the tail gate would not close, I went to help but to no avail, so a call to CRT was required.
I was informed that it would be about an hour before anyone could help and we debated whether we should turn around and head back to Spon Lane junction locks or sit it out until help arrived. We left Scruff of the boat and she jumped down to the towpath falling as she landed, following this she was hobbling around obviously hurting her leg in the fall.
Our decision was made for us as a couple of minutes later three CRT men arrived, they pushed and pulled at the gate eventually freeing the obstruction. They also set about clearing all the rubbish that had accumulated in front of the head gates, I enquired about the scum and grease that had also collected around the rubbish, they informed me that this was Ghee used in Asian cooking, the canal being a handy place for disposing of it. Alongside the engine arm the walls had been rebuilt only to have been recently vandalised with the top few courses of bricks pushed over much to the dismay of our three helpers, also we were sorry to see that vandals had also set fire to a fine example of an old BCN toll house at the top of the locks..
Amongst the rubbish pulled out of the water was a bag of mobile phone covers and a black bin liner full of old cannabis roots.
The CRT lads helped us through the next two locks, we were grateful for their help as the second lock had a problem with the tail gates and low water, combining to cause us to become stuck, they let through more water to flush us through to the next lock. Arriving in the next chamber it became obvious that we had something on the prop, requiring a visit down the weed hatch to clear it, not something I wanted to do in all this filth, also not knowing what we might have picked up. Fortunately it was only a tote bag along with a few of the usual carrier bags.
It was with great relief that we arrived at the bottom of the flight and onto the junction, we thanked the CRT guys with a bottle of beer each before moving onto the new line, feeling we had made the right decision not to visit the back waters.
The run into Birmingham was straight forward, it was intesting to see the old Brindley loops going off to each side of the dead straight course of the new line.
Birmingham
The morning was bright and sunny, although there had been a frost, the ice soon cleared and we were on our way along the main line heading for Birmingham.
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| Coseley Tunnel on the improved old main Line |
It wasn't long before we reached the junction of the Wyrley and Essington canal, this canal heads up to the northern reaches of the BCN and it was our original intention to explore these back waters, however, due to our discussions with the other boaters at Wolverhampton, we decided against it for the time being. Maybe we will reconsider later in the season when some of the rubbish has been removed.
We carried on impressed by the depth of the canal making for quick and easy progress. This stretch of water follows the original course of Brindley's route but was modified and improved by Telford in later years. We soon arrived at Tipton where the old and new lines separate to be reunited closer to Birmingham.
This junction known as Factory junction requires a sharp right turn to continue on the old line or straight on to descend the three locks down to the new line level some forty feet below. We had no option other than to take the old line as the new line had been dewatered due to repairs to an aqueduct just below the locks.
Just after the junction we passed another junction leading to the Dudley canal, Black Country Museum and the Dudley Tunnel visitor centre, somewhere we plan to visit later in the week. The old line twists and turns following the contours of the hillside, this was Brindley's preferred method of canal design leading to a sometimes torturous route to cover a short distance. Telford's route, on the other hand, takes a straight line using embankments, cuttings and tunnels, in this case shortening the distance by a third. Travelling along here we passed many old and new factories some were old engineering works with that old engineering smell taking me back to my time as an apprentice then suddenly, around the next bend being brought back up to date by the smell of samosas and onion bhajis from a local bakery.
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| The Netherton branch on tunnel from Tividale Aqueduct |
We crossed Tividale aqueduct where the old line crosses the Netherton branch of the New Line, we were able to look down onto the canal and saw the portal of the 3027 yard long Netherton Tunnel. Shortly after we reached Bradeshall junction and it's three locks down to the New Line. The old line and all its links to the new were retained as there was industry and mining activity along its banks, relying on the system for moving goods in and out.
A few miles further on the canal reaches the M5 motorway, built over the top of the canal. There was significant work going on under the flyover and the atmosphere led to a very surreal feel with our route passing beneath and in between all the scaffolding installed for the work. It was strange to see old humpbacked canal bridges in this artificial environment.
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| Under the M5 |
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| The New Line from the Stewart Aqueduct |
Under the motorway we also came across another couple of junctions the first being a short arm leading down to Oldbury, the second, Spon Lane junction, yet another link to the new line via three locks. Immediately before this junction we crossed over the new line on Stewart aqueduct affording us views up and down the straight new line below. We continued along our elevated level passing the old Smethwick Pumping Station, this was built to return water from the new level back up to the old, significantly increasing the number of boats able to pass through the locks each day. The original beam engine was built by Boulton and Watt, this is now on display in the Thinktank Museum in Birmingham. Shortly after the pump house we reached engine arm again crossing the new line to a basin on the opposite bank.
At this point we had arrived at the top of the three Smethwick locks where old and new are again reunited. Lucia went to set the lock up only to find that the tail gate would not close, I went to help but to no avail, so a call to CRT was required.
I was informed that it would be about an hour before anyone could help and we debated whether we should turn around and head back to Spon Lane junction locks or sit it out until help arrived. We left Scruff of the boat and she jumped down to the towpath falling as she landed, following this she was hobbling around obviously hurting her leg in the fall.
Our decision was made for us as a couple of minutes later three CRT men arrived, they pushed and pulled at the gate eventually freeing the obstruction. They also set about clearing all the rubbish that had accumulated in front of the head gates, I enquired about the scum and grease that had also collected around the rubbish, they informed me that this was Ghee used in Asian cooking, the canal being a handy place for disposing of it. Alongside the engine arm the walls had been rebuilt only to have been recently vandalised with the top few courses of bricks pushed over much to the dismay of our three helpers, also we were sorry to see that vandals had also set fire to a fine example of an old BCN toll house at the top of the locks..
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| Vandalised Wall |
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| Burnt out Toll House |
Amongst the rubbish pulled out of the water was a bag of mobile phone covers and a black bin liner full of old cannabis roots.
The CRT lads helped us through the next two locks, we were grateful for their help as the second lock had a problem with the tail gates and low water, combining to cause us to become stuck, they let through more water to flush us through to the next lock. Arriving in the next chamber it became obvious that we had something on the prop, requiring a visit down the weed hatch to clear it, not something I wanted to do in all this filth, also not knowing what we might have picked up. Fortunately it was only a tote bag along with a few of the usual carrier bags.
It was with great relief that we arrived at the bottom of the flight and onto the junction, we thanked the CRT guys with a bottle of beer each before moving onto the new line, feeling we had made the right decision not to visit the back waters.
The run into Birmingham was straight forward, it was intesting to see the old Brindley loops going off to each side of the dead straight course of the new line.
Birmingham
We arrived in the centre of Birmingham and were really impressed with the centre around the canals, we cruised through the basins to turn around at the start of the Birmingham and Worcester canal. We retraced our steps past Gas Street Basin and moored alongside the Arena just past Brindley Place.
There are plenty of moorings around here varying from 2 to 14 days.
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| Canal scene in Birmingham |
The canal side offers a bewildering array of eating places and I would imagine it would be very difficult to decide which one to choose.
The developments have embraced the canal scene with modern architecture blending in well with the old.
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| Birmingham Moorings |
We spent a couple of days here and visited the Art Gallery and The Thinktank Science Museum, poor old Scruff was still suffering from her fall so we left her on the boat to help her recovery.
The weather was a bit disappointing again with frequent rain showers and a cool breeze, and a third visit from the "Beast from the East" threatened for the easter weekend.
We decided to move on to get to the Black Country Museum to find a mooring before the Easter rush, we took the New Main Line for our return, passing beneath our route into Birmingham.
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| Smethwick Pumping Station from the New Line |
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| Engine Arm Aqueduct |
Black Country Museum and the Dudley Tunnels
This area is a mecca for the industrial archeology enthusiast, the moorings are right in and amongst it all, with the Museum on one bank and the Tunnel visitor centre on the other, there are also useful boater facilities here too, the mooring is limited to 48 hours so we planned our time here carefully to take in all the sights.
We called into the tunnel centre and decided take the trip into the tunnels.
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| Dudley Tunnel Portal |
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Light and sound inside Dudley Tunnel |
The trip takes visitors through the portal, almost immediately you come to a basin with tunnels leading off in all directions, this is open as the roof was removed in the 19th century. visitors are then taken to various underground caverns created by the limestone miners, in one of these there is a light and sound show recreating the experience of victorian visitors. All in all it is well worth a visit and reveals a lot about the industrial history of the area.
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| Black Country Museum (the small boat behind ours belongs to Gary and Karen) |
The Black Country Museum is a joy, with life in the old Black Country being recreated with a school, mines, forges.shops etc all rebuilt around the canal basins. The site has been used as a location for the TV series Peaky Blinders and this now sets the theme, all the staff wearing flat caps. We had been told the that the Fish and Chips, sold from a re-creation of an original chip shop, are a must, we can certainly agree they are delicious.
On Good Friday we walked up to see Dudley Castle and Zoo just up the road from the moorings. The castle ruins are worth a visit in their own right, being located on top of the Rowley Hills, the views all around are impressive and we could not help to wonder how it must have looked in its industrial heyday. The zoo occupies the hill sides around the castle and is also worth a visit.
All in all this area has a lot to offer and would require at least a couple of days to do it justice, We certainly recommend this area for a great family weekend away.
Saturday 31st March
A wet start to the day, however it was time to move on so we readied ourselves for our departure. During our time here we met Karen and Gary, a couple from California who were exploring the canals in a small converted sailing boat. We saw them arrive in the rain on Thursday. The boat had a small electric outboard motor powered by a battery fed by a solar panel. They began their trip in Nantwich but due to the poor weather had to tow the boat for most of the journey, they were on their way to Stratford Upon Avon. Due to cold and damp weather they spent most of the evenings keeping warm in the services buildings. Incredible people on an incredible journey.
We offered them a tow along to the locks at Bradeshall, from here they would turn right to Birmingham, our route was to the left up the new line to turn left again at Dudley Port junction. From here our route took a straight line to the northern portal of the enormous Netherton tunnel, passing under the aqueduct of the old line above as we approached.
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| Entering the gaping Netherton Tunnel |
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| Inside the Tunnel |
Netherton tunnel is 3027 yards long and the channel is wide enough for two boats to pass as well as a towpath on each side, it is dead straight and due to its size it is possible to see the portal at the opposite end.
It took us just under an hour to get through emerging at the southern portal at Windmill End junction.
We stopped to take on water at the junction before continuing to our mooring for the night at The Waterfront at Brierley Hill.
This is an impressive new development built on the site of the old Round Oak Steel Works.
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| The Waterfront |
The following morning we continued on our way, soon reaching the top of the 8 locks making up the Delph flight. These locks have an unusual but effective side pound arrangement with weirs to the side of each set of tailgates.
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| Delph Locks |
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| The unusual weirs |
They seem to be a bit confused round these parts as, at the top is nine locks bridge and at the bottom is a pub called the tenth lock?
The canal twists its way around the contour level for a couple of miles before reaching the top of the Stourbridge locks, an impressive flight of 16 chambers with fine views across the valley below. These locks were a pleasure to pass through with something new to see round every corner. Our task was made easier by the fact that the locks were all in our favour and we were assisted by John of the Dudley Canals Trust who helped us down the last 10 locks.
There are some unusual sights along the flight, one pair of locks used to be a staircase but have been converted to two individual locks with about 6 foot between the tail gates of one and the head gates of the next.
We also passed the old Redhouse glass works with its museum in an old bottle kiln, the other factory buildings have been redeveloped into offices and apartments. A Little further down a new residetial development had been built in the style of the old Black Country factories, in keeping with the canal and its environs.
Arriving at the bottom of the locks we said goodbye to our assistant John, repaying him with a beer, here we had arrived at the short arm into Stourbridge, turning left we headed down the arm to arrive at the historic wharf at the end. The wharf and its bonded warehouse have been restores by the Stourbridge Canal Society and they have done a great job.
We walked up into the high street and were surprised to find a small market town, still retaining its own identity even though it has been consumed by large conurbation surrounding Birmingham.The town has a lot of character made famous for being the centre of the glass industry. One notable building on the High Street is the Edward VII college founded in the 16th Century.
We stayed on the moorings just outside the wharf, these are quiet and newly developed and make a good place to moor for a couple of nights. Across the field from the moorings are the remnants of the old loco works, the remaining building is now a medical centre but the exterior has been carefully restored. It was in these works that the first steam loco to be used in North America, was built.
The threatened weather was not as bad as predicted, although we did have a lot of rain so we stayed put on Easter Monday.
Our intention is to leave here on Tuesday making our way down to the Staffs and Worcs canal where we will turn south towards the river Severn.
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| The old Staircase Lock |
There are some unusual sights along the flight, one pair of locks used to be a staircase but have been converted to two individual locks with about 6 foot between the tail gates of one and the head gates of the next.
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| Redhouse Bottle Kiln |
We also passed the old Redhouse glass works with its museum in an old bottle kiln, the other factory buildings have been redeveloped into offices and apartments. A Little further down a new residetial development had been built in the style of the old Black Country factories, in keeping with the canal and its environs.
Arriving at the bottom of the locks we said goodbye to our assistant John, repaying him with a beer, here we had arrived at the short arm into Stourbridge, turning left we headed down the arm to arrive at the historic wharf at the end. The wharf and its bonded warehouse have been restores by the Stourbridge Canal Society and they have done a great job.
We walked up into the high street and were surprised to find a small market town, still retaining its own identity even though it has been consumed by large conurbation surrounding Birmingham.The town has a lot of character made famous for being the centre of the glass industry. One notable building on the High Street is the Edward VII college founded in the 16th Century.
We stayed on the moorings just outside the wharf, these are quiet and newly developed and make a good place to moor for a couple of nights. Across the field from the moorings are the remnants of the old loco works, the remaining building is now a medical centre but the exterior has been carefully restored. It was in these works that the first steam loco to be used in North America, was built.
The threatened weather was not as bad as predicted, although we did have a lot of rain so we stayed put on Easter Monday.
Our intention is to leave here on Tuesday making our way down to the Staffs and Worcs canal where we will turn south towards the river Severn.
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| Stourbridge Loco Works |
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| Stourbridge Moorings |
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| Edward VII College |
Another enjoyable tale of the Holdsworths travels
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